Living on the Lawn

November 26th, 2009

Last month my family moved into Pavilion II, the house that abuts the Rotunda on the east side (the right as you face the Rotunda). This elegant and unassuming house is a gateway that connects two very different worlds, in the most beguiling ways. From the Lawn, perhaps America’s most perfect physical expression of the universe of learning, one enters a house that is elegantly elongated, both vertically and horizontally, with light flooding in from its triple-hung windows. Walking past the living room that our movers began calling “the ballroom” as they reassembled an old Schimmel piano there, and the dining room that leads to the back door, one arrives at a breathtaking vista that reveals what John Donne might have called “a little world cunningly made”: sloping layers of garden that offer quiet refuge and solace from the hustle and bustle of academic life.

Sequestered by Mr. Jefferson’s famous serpentine walls, the garden opens out to the fullness of the season. In the spring, the garden blazes with dogwood and azaleas, and then lilacs, followed by day lilies, lavender, and chaste trees, and the crepe myrtle, whose deep red seems even deeper on a hot summer day. The garden is as bountiful as it is beautiful, yielding fruit—fig, elderberry, apple, strawberry, blueberry and grape—as well as herbs, and all of this watched over by an ancient bigleaf magnolia, the type that produces large blossoms with a hint of yellow and purple at its center. One of these days the tree will have to be felled; but for now, it stands firm, insisting on bestowing dignity to a garden nearly two centuries old.

For moderns and postmoderns like us, the new house presents some special challenges. It is a house with significant history, and history is always a burden, even as one learns from it. In moving into the Pavilion, I did not have the freedom of the typical homeowner to do as I pleased—the kind of willful and rebellious ignorance one sometimes yearns for, and is politely denied, at the University of Virginia. Here we start our scholarly journey by learning the meaning of the structures bequeathed to us.

Based on the Ionic style of the Temple of the Fortuna Virilis in Rome, as published by Palladio, the Pavilion has the distinguishing features of this order, such as a frieze of ox skulls, putti, ribbons, and garlands festooned with fruit motifs. The entablatures are visible outside over the columns as well in one of the rooms upstairs. Jefferson fretted over the last detail of the design, down to the quality and cost of the bricks with which to build this home. He did not live to see the first faculty move in, but he seems to have conceived it for the teaching of medicine. The first five inhabitants were physicians and medical school professors. It was not until 1896 that a non-physician—James Harris, professor of modern languages—moved in. Since then, availability and opportunity, rather than academic discipline, have determined the choice of inhabitants in Pavilion II.

For much of my adult life, I have been, by avocation, a restorer of old houses. Restoration of old homes is an act of love but also an obligation, to see to it that beautiful old structures with significant meaning are nursed back to life and their former glory, with modern amenities. Eventually I learned to greet all my contractors and subcontractors—all too many of them over the years—in their native languages, and together we restored old Midwestern houses built around time when industrialization was breathing new life into the prairie.

The interesting thing about “This Old House” called Pavilion II is that it cannot be retrofitted for modernity, however thorough the renovation may have been. Rather, modernity gets retrofitted to accommodate the old house—and not just because it is utterly bereft of closets or its small kitchen does not allow cooking over a gas flame. Rather, the location and structure of the house harkens back to an earlier era that calls forth a conception of learning and social life different from what prevails in most research universities. Pavilion II is an integral part of learning and of the University’s community, as it was conceived in the mind of its architect. It is not a place designed for withdrawal but for engagement; not for possessive individualism but for sharing—much like the nature of knowledge, which is useful only in the sharing and spreading of it. Pavilion II is my house as it is yours, a place that our students can come when they want to talk with their dean and a home away from home for our alumni.

In the garden, the camellias are in full bloom. Hugging the wall that separates the upper and lower gardens, the white flowers are unusually luminous on this Thanksgiving Day, throwing light to the garden otherwise dormant for the season. I don’t know who planted those white camellias, a species that originated from my native region of East Asia, and one of my favorite flowers. But their presence strikes me as being emblematic of Pavilion II: inspired by the classical from around the world, alive to the present, looking to the future.

Virginia in Peking

November 3rd, 2009

Last week the College opened an office on the campus of Peking University.  It is located on the fifth floor of a state-of-the art building, overlooking a stately courtyard, surrounded by stunningly beautiful modern academic buildings that keep springing up, as the Chinese are wont to say, like bamboo shoots after the spring rain. We expect to put this office at Peking University to good use to facilitate research collaboration and faculty and student exchanges between the two universities.

At the ceremony for signing the agreement, President Casteen spoke of the growing bond between two great public universities.  The parallels between the two places are numerous. The University of Virginia was founded not because Thomas Jefferson wanted another shining beacon of enlightenment and secularism but because he felt the university was a prerequisite for the survival of the Republic and the American Revolution that had given birth to it. The creation of Peking University was also an act of desperate hope, seeking to establish modern learning in order to revive an ailing nation in a world dominated by the Western powers. In both universities academic freedom was to be the guiding principle governing the conduct of all their affairs.

But Peking University has had a more turbulent history. Academic freedom in the best tradition of the German research university (which is essentially what was sought at Peking University) was grafted onto the body of a Chinese tradition where the intellectuals actually laid claim to power. It turned out to be a combustible combination. In traditional China, intellectuals (or the literati) came from local landed gentry and, upon passing the state examination, they became government officials. Thus the intellectuals in China identified with the state, and took a certain responsibility for its welfare. This sense of political agency took new forms at the newly founded Peking University.

Throughout its history Peking University produced intellectuals, leaders, and rebels of every conceivable political stripe, and was responsible for triggering major social and political movements in China. A birthplace of the May Fourth Movement which gave cultural expression to Chinese nationalism, it also spawned Chinese communism by producing a number of founding members of the Chinese Communist Party—even Mao Zedong worked there as a staff librarian. In addition to Communist leaders, it also produced nationalist thinkers on the right and liberal thinkers somewhere in between. Nearly all major historical events involved agitations on its campus, whether be it the Cultural Revolution or the Tiananmen Square protests.

Thomas Jefferson famously said that the University of Virginia will be based on the “illimitable freedom of the human mind.” He also followed that “for here, we are not afraid to follow truth where it may lead, nor to tolerate any error so long as reason is left free to combat it.”

At Peking University, reason is still not fully free to combat the errors of its complex history. But it is claiming its rightful place as one of Asia’s greatest universities, and it is teeming with scholars from all over the world, engaged in all kinds of cutting-edge research. The Chinese government accounts for nearly one quarter of global funding in scientific research—and the beneficiaries are the universities like Peking University, China’s flagship in higher education. When I see their science laboratories, my jaw drops, not just because they are state of the art, but also because they are able to build them at a fraction of what they would cost in Charlottesville. With such vigorous investment in research and scholarship, China is finally returning to its greatness, again putting intellectuals and learning at the center of its civilization.

At the moment of this historical turn, I am full of hope for the future and for greater collaboration between our two great institutions.  When students from all over China and around the world walk down the hall of that beautiful building to arrive at a sign that says, “University of Virginia,” they may appreciate the truth so eloquently described by Jefferson: “That ideas should freely spread from one to another over the globe, for the moral and mutual instruction of man, and improvement of his condition, seems to have been peculiarly and benevolently designed by nature . . . like fire, expansible over all space, without lessening their density in any point, and like the air in which we breathe, move, and have our physical being, incapable of confinement or exclusive appropriation.”